THE FIGGI APPROACH
The Science of FIGGI™
A formulation philosophy built around sensitive skin, barrier support and intelligent ingredient systems.
Sensitive skin is rarely influenced by one factor alone. Hydration, barrier function, environmental exposure, ingredient tolerance and everyday irritation can all affect how skin looks and feels.
FIGGI formulas are therefore not built around a single fashionable ingredient or one headline claim. They are developed as considered systems, with each ingredient selected for a defined cosmetic function and its role within the formula as a whole.
This approach brings together hydration support, barrier-focused formulation, green rooibos science and skin comfort.
We call this Calm Intelligence: a practical, science-led way of formulating for skin that benefits from thoughtful support rather than unnecessary complexity.
The Aspalux3™ formulation framework
THE ASPALUX3™ COMPLEX
Three pillars, anchored in rooibos science
Aspalux3™ is FIGGI’s proprietary formulation framework built around three connected cosmetic priorities: visible skin comfort, hydration balance and barrier resilience.
These pillars are not approached as isolated benefits. They are considered together because the way skin looks and feels depends on the performance of the formula as a complete system.
Rooibos science anchors the framework. Green rooibos and its naturally occurring polyphenols sit at the centre of FIGGI’s ingredient research, while supporting ingredients are selected to contribute defined roles within hydration, barrier support and overall skin comfort.
This means rooibos is not treated as a decorative hero ingredient. It forms part of a considered formulation architecture in which each component supports the wider cosmetic purpose of the formula.
Together, the three pillars express FIGGI’s Calm Intelligence approach: thoughtful formulation for skin that benefits from support without unnecessary complexity.
OUR PHILOSOPHY
Why we don't formulate around trends
Skincare innovation is often presented as a succession of hero ingredients, each promising to solve increasingly complex concerns. While ingredient research continues to evolve, individual ingredients rarely determine the performance of a finished cosmetic product on their own.
FIGGI takes a different approach. Every formulation is developed by considering how ingredients work together, with each component selected for a specific cosmetic purpose within the wider system. Hydration, barrier support, texture, stability, compatibility and skin tolerance are all considered as part of the same formulation architecture.
This systems-based philosophy allows evidence to guide formulation decisions rather than marketing trends. Ingredients are chosen because they contribute meaningful cosmetic functions, not because they are fashionable or expected to generate headlines.
For us, thoughtful formulation is ultimately about creating balanced products that respect sensitive skin and reflect the current understanding of cosmetic science, while recognising that research continues to develop.
SCIENCE & EVIDENCE
Evidence before claims
Scientific research is continually advancing, but not all evidence carries the same weight. Laboratory studies, mechanistic research and human clinical studies each contribute different insights into how cosmetic ingredients may perform.
At FIGGI, we distinguish between emerging scientific understanding and established cosmetic evidence. This helps ensure that our ingredient selection, formulation decisions and product claims remain grounded in the available research rather than overstated marketing.
Our formulations are developed with recognised cosmetic ingredient functions in mind, while remaining transparent about where evidence is well established and where research continues to evolve.
By taking this approach, we aim to communicate cosmetic science accurately, responsibly and with respect for both the evidence and the consumer.
FURTHER READING
Questions about the FIGGI approach
What does Calm Intelligence mean?
Calm Intelligence is FIGGI’s science-led formulation philosophy. It describes an approach that considers hydration, barrier support, ingredient tolerance, skin comfort and the wider formulation system rather than relying on one fashionable ingredient or exaggerated claim.
What is Aspalux3™?
Aspalux3™ is FIGGI’s proprietary formulation framework built around three connected cosmetic priorities: visible skin comfort, hydration balance and barrier resilience. Rooibos science anchors the framework and forms part of FIGGI’s wider ingredient research and formulation identity.
Why does FIGGI focus on the complete formula?
The performance of a cosmetic product depends on more than its headline ingredients. Emollients, humectants, occlusives, emulsifiers, preservatives, texture modifiers and active ingredients all influence how a formula performs, feels and is tolerated. FIGGI therefore evaluates ingredients within the context of the complete formulation.
How does FIGGI assess scientific evidence?
FIGGI distinguishes between laboratory research, mechanistic evidence, ingredient studies, finished-product testing, human clinical evidence and consumer perception data. Each type of evidence can provide useful information, but they do not all support the same level of claim.
Does FIGGI formulate specifically for sensitive skin?
FIGGI develops formulas with the needs of sensitive and reactive-feeling skin in mind. This includes careful ingredient selection, barrier-focused formulation, fragrance-free design and attention to texture and skin comfort. Cosmetic products cannot diagnose or treat sensitive-skin conditions.
EDUCATIONAL RESOURCE
The information on this page describes FIGGI’s formulation philosophy and the cosmetic science principles that guide product development. It is intended for educational purposes and should not be interpreted as medical advice or as evidence that cosmetic products diagnose, treat or prevent disease. Cosmetic ingredient functions and formulation approaches are discussed within the framework of applicable cosmetic regulations.
Scientific References
The scientific principles described on this page draw on established cosmetic science, skin barrier research, hydration biology, sensitive-skin literature, green rooibos research and regulatory guidance on cosmetic claims.
Scientific References
Skin Barrier Biology
- Proksch E, Brandner JM, Jensen JM. The skin: an indispensable barrier. Experimental Dermatology. 2008.
- Elias PM. Stratum corneum defensive functions: an integrated view. Journal of Investigative Dermatology.
- Madison KC. Barrier function of the skin: “la raison d’être” of the epidermis. Journal of Investigative Dermatology.
Hydration and Moisturisation
- Rawlings AV, Harding CR. Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy.
- Loden M. Role of topical emollients and moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin barrier disorders. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology.
- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology.
Sensitive Skin Science
- Misery L, et al. Sensitive skin syndrome: an update. Acta Dermato-Venereologica.
- Azizi N, et al. Sensitive skin syndrome: an update. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology. 2020.
- Farage MA. The prevalence of sensitive skin. Frontiers in Medicine.
Cosmetic Formulation Science
- Barel AO, Paye M, Maibach HI. Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology.
- Draelos ZD. Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures.
- Surber C, Kottner J. Skin care products: what do they promise, what do they deliver. Journal of Tissue Viability.
Green Rooibos Research
- Joubert E, Gelderblom WCA, Louw A, de Beer D. Rooibos (Aspalathus linearis) beyond the farm gate: from herbal tea to potential phytopharmaceutical. South African Journal of Botany. 2011.
- Vhangani LN, et al. Optimising the polyphenolic content and antioxidant activity of green rooibos infusions. Molecules. 2022.
- Ku SK, et al. Aspalathin and nothofagin from rooibos (Aspalathus linearis) and their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in experimental models. Inflammation. 2015.
- Afrifa D, et al. The health benefits of rooibos tea in humans: a review. Journal of Traditional and Complementary Medicine. 2023.
Cosmetic Claims and EU Regulation
- Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council on cosmetic products.
- Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013 laying down common criteria for the justification of claims used in relation to cosmetic products.
- European Commission. Technical document on cosmetic claims.